ON THE ROAD WITH H. MONTANILE
DECEMBER 2016
Upon arriving in San Francisco on the Monday after Christmas Day, we drove into down town dropped our bags at the hotel* and off we went. After a 6-hour flight and 3 hour time change we were ready to eat. Walking out of the hotel we headed up to Market street and came upon the BlueStem Brasserie:
1 Yerba Buena Lane (off Market & 3rd Streets) San Francisco, CA 94103
This was a great place for lunch with an eclectic menu and upbeat atmosphere that satisfied all our culinary senses. From Beet Salads, curried cauliflower sandwiches to roasted chicken and Steelhead trout (of course there were burgers, pulled pork & steak sandwiches too) the meal was delicious. Their wine list compliments the Brasserie’s delicious fare. The Pushback 2014 Sauvignon Blanc and Banshee Pinot Noir completed our meal. I would definitely recommend this spot when in San Fran’s downtown financial district.
After our lunch we decided to take a walk to Pier 39 where you can see the Sealions gather together and play. At the Pier there is an aquarium, shops and a multitude of dining options. Walking to the Pier is great if you are looking for some exercise. The hills in San Francisco provide quite an aerobic workout. While walking is a great way to discover all the different neighborhoods San Fran has to offer, there is always the Trolley, a cab, UBER, or bus that can take you from one end of the city to the other.
On our way back from the Pier around 7:00PM we stopped at the W Hotel Lounge (located at 181 3rd Street) to greet our friends that had flown in a few days earlier. The Livingroom Lounge at The W is a great place to wind down the day and start your evening with great cocktails, fireplace seating and light dining.
Once back at our hotel, just down the block form The W, we decided to have dinner in the hotel restaurant, Maso (50 3rd Street San Francisco, CA 94103). Maso is one of the preferred restaurants in San Fran’s financial district and it is super yummy. The Pan roasted or grilled salmon is cooked to perfection and accompanied with veggies. The grilled chicken panini with French fries is just good food. The wine list and Draft and Craft beer will not disappoint. The breakfast at Maso is also delicious. Order ala carte unless you have a HUGE appetite, the buffet is pricey at 30.00 per person.
SLEEP TIME.
DAY 2 (Tuesday):
Waking on our first full day in San Fran, we were heading north to Santa Rosa to a very special place, SAFARI WEST. This would be our third visit in the last 19 years. Safari West is a 400-acre private wildlife preserve located in Sonoma County, The selection of wildlife emphasizes species native to Africa, including giraffes, rhinoceros, cheetahs, and numerous species of birds. The park engages in breeding programs that, through exchanges with other zoos and parks, keep the gene pool healthy for the species that are involved in the program. The park is also home to species that are considered to be extinct in the wild.
You have a guide and ride through the preserve in an open-air Humvee. AWESOME! You can also spend the night in one of their authentic (modernized) huts where you will be serenaded by the wildlife through the night, truly one of the most beautiful sounds/symphony you will ever hear. There is a great outdoor (with indoor accommodations) restaurant, Savannah Grill, with a large barbecue pit that serves up delicious wholesome meals. Of course, wine is served (Try the Davis Bynum Pinot Noir) along with hot chocolate, tea, lemonade, water, etc. There is also a small deli on premises to gather snacks for your tour. (Tours are 2.5-3hrs in length) Reservations are required and privately guided tours are available as well.
SAFARI WEST is located at 3115 Porter Creek Road, Santa Rosa, CA 95404
Tel: (707) 579-2551
Since our tour was at 1:00PM (we had lunch at the Savannah Grill at noon) we did not get back on the road till almost 4:00PM. We were heading to Napa. However, we decided to take a slight detour and catch a Winery before it closed just 10 miles away from Safari West in Healdsburg (Southern tip of Sonoma County) We went into J Vineyards & Winery as we knew that they were open for tastings until 5:30pm. Upon arriving at J (located at 1147 Old Redwood Hwy Healdsburg, CA 95448/Tel: (888) 549-6327.) the place was hopping. The gentlemen at the front was consumed by guests who had reservations and was slightly annoyed with our late arrival. We were simply walk-ins (not the best way to be greeted at some vineyards) going to the tasting bar.
We headed for the tasting bar and were greeted by another very “busy” pourer who had other guests as well. It is customary to find some type of palette cleanser (between wines) crackers, breadsticks, cheese, etc. (even if purchase is necessary). There were none here (nor offered) We had to ask (so embarrassing). Finally, breadsticks appeared across the bar.
The Wines at J Vineyards are a refreshing change of pace as Judy (Jordan of Jordan wines) focuses on bubbly/sparkling wines and does it quite well. There is also lovely pinot noirs, chardonnays & pinot gris to be tasted. I strongly suggest reservations so that you will feel like an invited guest and can enjoy a wine and cheese paring, which is super lovely.
It was time to get on the road to Napa (about an hour south). We arrived out our hotel at the very Southern end of Napa, closest to downtown, around 6:30PM. The Westin Verasa Hotel is located at 1314 McKinstry Street Napa, CA 94559 and is walking distance to downtown Napa and the Napa Valley Wine Train. Although, it wasn’t late we had a long day and were ready to check in and eat. We decided to dine at the hotel’s restaurant the Bank Café and Bar (open daily from 7:00am till late) from fresh mushroom soup, scallops, ½ roasted chicken, burgers, chick pea fries to steak, the food was delicious and really hit the spot. The wine list and drink menu extensive.
DAY 3 (Wednesday):
Good morning! We ate breakfast at the Bank Cafe (for convenience) and what a delight! Offering up healthy choices such as egg white omelets with steamed broccoli and side salads, oatmeal, smoothies, fresh berries and Greek yogurt as well as traditional (and non-traditional) favorites such as waffles, Huevos Beneditcos, and Smoked Salmon. All of the bread is divine.
Today, we planned a day of wine tasting at 3 vineyards. Since we were traveling with our friends we decided on a driver for the day. We used Napa Valley Tours & Transportation (NVT) telephone# (707) 251-9463 to help us arrange our tastings for the day including lunch and to chauffer us around. Everyone I spoke with at NVT was super helpful and accommodating. Our driver, Dave, was great!
First stop:
Tasting Fee: Yes $40.00pp. Reservations strongly suggested.
Winner of the 1976 Paris (blind) Tasting of American & French Wines, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars’ 1973 SLV Cabernet Sauvignon took top honors triumphing over other first growths and other renowned wines of Bordeaux. Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars was recognized as one of the most noteworthy Cab producers in the world. This victory thrust California wine onto the map.
The tasting room at the winery is set in a modern beautiful structure with large windows overlooking the scenic vineyard. Tastings are set up at high top tables (standing not sitting) with appropriate stemware. A wine educator arrives at your table (After checking in with reception) and discusses the wines with you while sipping through the flight of tastings. (There were no palette cleansers offered here, simply water)
During our visit we tasted:
2014 ARCADIA VINEYARD Chardonnay;
2013 FAY Cabernet Sauvignon;
2013 S.L.V. Cabernet Sauvignon;
2013 CASK 23 Cabernet Sauvignon; And we were treated to a tasting of the 2012 FAY Cabernet Sauvignon just before the CASK.
All of the wines were delicious!
Our wine educator, Nat, was extremely knowledgeable and personable. He enhanced our experience with just the right amount of hands on and off. The ambiance was lively and inviting. The overall experience was great!
As we opted to have lunch at the Oakville Grocery (after our tasting at Silver Oak) our driver David, from NVT, suggested that we order our lunch before heading into the tasting room, Since our lunch order would take 45 minutes David suggested eating at the Grocery’s outdoor picnic tables before heading over to our final destination.
Silver Oak Wine Cellars 915 Oakville Cross Road, Oakville, CA 94562 (707) 942-7022
Tasting Fee: Yes $25.00pp. No reservation required. (except for lunch and large groups).
The Tasting room at Silver Oak has a very warm & inviting feeling with a rustic fireplace and big bar with room for all. The pours are very generous and the staff is easy going, breadsticks abound. Silver Oak is family and pet friendly, bonus!
During our visit we tasted:
2012 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon;
2011 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon; And
2006 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.
The wines were distinctly Silver Oak and overall very tasty.
LUNCH: Oakville Grocery 7856 St. Helena Hwy Oakville, CA 94562 (707) 944-8802
Oakville Grocery is an integral part of Napa Valley history since 1881, Oakville Grocery remains a gathering place for friends to share the best in handcrafted, locally sourced food and wine and to experience what makes Napa and Sonoma Counties so special. As the longest continually operating grocery store in California, it was the general store that served the visionary pioneers who first planted grapes in the valley.
NOTE: It was a good thing that we ordered ahead of time. As we arrived signs were posted on the front door stating that no more sandwiches would be available for the rest of the day as they had run out of bread. This is no ordinary grocery/deli. A culinary delight in every way. From wines to espressos and gourmet baked goods, salads, sandwiches and made to order meals-simply a must!
Our final tasting stop: Gamble Family Vineyards, Oakville, CA 94562 (707) 944-2999, Private tastings only/Reservations required. Located in the heart of Oakville (Napa), CA 94562 and just a stones’ throw from the Oakville Grocery is this GEM of a vineyard. Driving into Gamble Family the beauty of the property envelops you as you drive up to a lovely home, which is the winery and tasting facility. Upon our arrival, we were greeted outside on the front porch by Ashley, Gamble’s Brand Ambassador. With tray in hand, Ashley welcomes us with a glass of Gambles’ Heart Block Sauvignon Blanc. We were the only guests and we were treated like royalty. After quick introductions, Ashley toured us through the wine making facility ending in the lovely dining room set for our wine tasting pleasure. The wines poured were all delicious; we tasted the Cab Franc, Family Home Cabernet Sauvignon and the Cairo (Cabernet Sauvignon).
We enjoyed the wines so much that we purchased the Cairo and Cab Franc to be shipped home.
This experience is truly wine tasting at its finest. Beautiful surroundings, private accommodation, knowledgeable & friendly staff and great wines! We will definitely visit here again.
As our wine tasting day was coming to an end, we were looking forward to the culinary delight of La Toque (newly located at our hotel The Westin Verasa 1413 Mckinstry Street, Napa).
Joe and I had dined at La Toque when it was a stand alone restaurant located in Rutherford nearly 17 years prior. At that time our experience was bar none: EXCEPTIONAL (See our archived website review) I believe Euphoric was the word we used to describe our experience. Unfortunately, this evening at La Toque was not the culinary delight we had experienced in the past. It felt commercialized and seriously lacked in taste and service. The staff paid no mind to the fact that I had pushed my salad away (untouched) as it was so salted I could not eat it. They simply cleared my plate and pretended not to notice. The rest of the meal was lackluster and not mentionable here. This was not the La Toque of past. You could see all the dished being lined up for service when you walked by the kitchen, it looked like one of the famous Chef Show competitions. We were all very disappointed. The over the top expense was simply not worth it. The other restaurant in the hotel, The Bank café was far better in every way. I am hoping that this was simply an off night and that others do not have this similar experience.
Napa is filled with so many delicious options, Try Brix or Mustards, reservations are needed for both.
DAY 4 (Thursday):
As we were leaving to head back to San Fran we decided to have breakfast in downtown Napa, just a short walk from our hotel. We followed the signs in to town and headed to JAX Diner, a truly local spot with an exceptional breakfast menu sure to please all palettes. From their own Crunchy French toast to their tasty eggs and Omelets, Jax Diner is a winner. After we breakfast we headed back to San Francisco. Before going into the City we stopped at Mt. Tamalpais State Park in Mill Valley for a hike. On a prior visit we went for a hike at Muir Woods (right next door), this is a must see. At Mt. Tamalpais we decided to hike up to the East Peak, a 2 mile ascent. Do not be discouraged as there are many bikers, joggers, trail runners and multiple hikers all enjoying the beauty of Mt. Tamalpais. The trails are well marked and meant to be hiked. The scenic beauty and views of San Fran are spectacular and worth the climb. After we came down the peak we decided to lunch at The Mountain Home Inn, located at (810 Panoramic Highway Mill Valley, CA 94941) the base of the park. An Inn with only 10 guest rooms and unbelievable views served up a lunch that was just outstanding! salads, burgers, soups, sandwiches and more. After lunch we headed into San Fran and checked into our hotel where we would remain for the duration of our trip. The Ritz Carlton, located at 600 Stockton Street San Francisco 94108 (Nob Hill neighborhood). As we were tired from the long day of hiking and travel we decided on a late dinner at our hotel restaurant Parallel 37. We all ordered the LOCAL BLACK COD with pumpkin arancini, brussels sprout, mustard cider jus. It was outstanding. Our server suggested the wines in accordance with our request and I loved the Gary Farrell Chardonnay, it was a perfect compliment to the Cod. The dessert was super yummy too. A great way to end another great day!
DAY 5 (Friday):
There is something special about waking up waking up in San Francisco, the city is chock full of adventure, with so many different neighborhoods to explore on foot, by bike, trolley, electric bus or car…. So, with all the great food we had been eating and delicious wine we had been drinking we set out on foot (for exercise) to Ghirardelli square. Once we arrived we wandered around the shops and then found ourselves inside Ghirardelli buying lush chocolates (Note: it's always a good idea to take a small backpack for stuff so that you can roam hands free). We continued walking down to the public pier and then wound our way up to the Golden Gate Bridge park. Once we walked through the park and came though the other side we were in the Marina District, spectacular! We rented bikes on the spot and rode along the pathway wide enough to accommodate, bikers, joggers and dogs walking. The 4 lane road separated the pathway abutting the marina and the beautiful home that lined the street known as Marina Ave. When we had enough we returned our bikes and head back toward Ghirardelli to have a very late lunch at The Pub, the Pub was diagonally across the street from the Aquarium and had a great view. The food was comfort at its best (we ate lunch their 2 days in a row/Day 6) ½ rotisserie chicken served with jalapeno coleslaw & mac n cheese-YUM- World Famous Tommy Tots (The Pub’s original version of tater tots sweet and spicy with bleu cheese-HEAVEN), kale & quinoa burger-get it with cheddar it is divine! The burgers are amazing as is the pulled pork sandwich. The Craft draft beers are outstanding. A truly fabulous find! We were so stuffed from lunch we never had dinner.
DAY 6 (Saturday) New Year’s Eve Day:
This would be our last day in San Fran as we would be leaving town on the 1st. We decided to UBER (great way to travel here) over to the famous Haight-Ashbury district. Haight-Ashbury is a district of San Francisco, California, named for the intersection of Haight and Ashbury streets. It is also called The Haight and The Upper Haight. The neighborhood is known for its history of, and being the origin of hippie counterculture.
Being from New York it reminded us of Greenwich Village. Plenty of Eclectic shops and places to eat. We didn’t stay long as we wanted to see the neighborhood of Seacliff, famous for its view of the Golden Gate Bridge and multi-million dollar home, a truly spectacular neighborhood.
We were meeting our friends for dinner at the E&O Kitchen just 3 blocks from our hotel located at 314 Sutter Street, 94108. For New Year’s eve it was one of only a handful of places that did not have a prix-fix menu, which was exactly what we were looking for. The Asian infused menu had something for everyone. The cocktails were excellent. We were spending New years at the hotel in the Ritz Carlton Lounge. After dinner we headed back dropped off our coats and went to the lounge, it was around 11:30PM. There was a DJ playing dance music and plenty of people enjoying the evening. We rang in the New Year in a comfortable and beautiful setting with our friends and teenage boys. The entire trip was fantastic start to finish and every day had something for all of us to share with each other.
Looking forward to our next adventure….. On the road with H. Montanile in 2017
